Wednesday, January 13, 2010

The Prep Guide to West Africa

A trip to West Africa requires a lot of preparation and planning, even if you decide to have a loose itinerary. First and foremost, take the time to look up the embassy or consulate's websites to figure out if you need a visa and/or vaccines for the country/ies you are visiting. Once you're on the ground, you'll realize pretty quickly that things don't work like in Europe or the US, especially when it comes to transportation and border crossings. Hopefully, the below tips will come in handy before and during your trip.

TRIP PLANNING

Plane Tickets
  • Plane tickets to Africa can be very expensive so look into airfare as early as possible
  • The search engine Vayama offers the best rates for plane tickets to Africa
Visas
  • Double check if you need a visa before you enter the country/ies you are visiting; you will find the information on the country's embassy or consulate's website
  • If you need a visa, make sure you apply ahead of time; it usually takes 5 to 10 business days to get it done (you can expedite your request but there will be an extra fee)
Vaccines
  • Make sure your vaccines are up to date!
  • The Yellow Fever* vaccine is mandatory for most West African countries. You will receive a yellow card that you must keep with you during your travels. In some cases, a copy of your yellow card is required for your visa application so don't wait until the last minute to get the vaccine.
  • I also recommend getting vaccines for Tetanus and Typhoid*, as well as Hepatitis A* and B (if you didn't get them already).
* Yellow Fever, Typhoid and Hepatitis A are usually not covered by US insurance companies. Each vaccine costs between $150 and $190 so make sure you include them in your budget.

What to Bring
  • A backpack is preferred if you'll be on the road (Osprey makes great ergonomic backpacks; they can be a little pricey but well worth the investment)
  • Flip flops (for the beach and everyday use)
  • If you plan on hiking, sneakers or hiking shoes (low-rise waterproof Merrell hiking shoes are great and not too heavy)
  • Light weight close shoes such as espadrilles or TOMS (if you don't want to wear open shoes when traveling)
  • At least 1 t-shirt or tank top per day, plus 1 or 2 extra ones if you have space (it's nice to have a change of clothes after a long day of traveling in the heat)
  • One light long sleeved shirt (good to have when there is AC)
  • A pair of light pants
  • One or two pairs of shorts
  • Small towel (cheaper hotels don't always provide towels)
  • Flash light (very handy when power goes off)
  • Sun tan lotion (even if the sky looks cloudy, the sun isn't far away)
  • Bug spray with high DEET concentration (put on bug spray every day, starting at dusk and reapply before going to bed)
  • If possible, try to get a MozStop (for sale on KLM flights); it looks like a gadget but it works!
ON THE GROUND

Sanitation
  • Do not drink water from faucets and avoid ice cubes. Only drink bottled water and make sure that the bottles are well sealed.
Currency
  • Make sure you know what the local currency of the country is, and look up what the average cost per day is so you know how much to budget
  • It also helps to know the exchange rates so you have a rough idea of how much you will be getting when exchanging money (that will prevent you from getting ripped off if you change money on the black market, especially at the borders)
  • The local airport usually offers the best exchange rates so make sure you have cash to exchange when you arrive in the country (plus will need local money to pay for a taxi).
Transportation
  • Always set the price before you get in a taxi, whether private or shared (there are no meters and drivers will always try to rip you off if you wait until you arrive at your destination)
  • If you look for a taxi or mini-bus, try to speak with the driver directly (unless someone you trust offers you to negotiate for you), otherwise you might have to pay an additional "booking fee" (i.e. a made up excuse to ask for more money)
  • When traveling by road, always add 1h to the estimated travel time indicated in your guide book. There is a lot of traffic - especially in big cities - and the roads are usually in bad condition, both of which will delay your trip.
Border Crossings
  • Be patient! Immigration can be long and painful so expect to spend at least 30 minutes at the border, filling out paperwork and getting your passport stamped
  • If you're traveling between countries with different currencies, you will have to pay for your visa in the currency of the country you are traveling to. You can exchange money on the black market at the border but they'll rip you off so make sure you have a rough idea of what the exchange rates are; it will help you to negotiate and get the best possible rate.
  • If your passport and visas are in order, you should be able to go through immigration without any problem. However, if you do not have the right visa, be prepared to run into difficulties and long-winded negotiations.
Togo-Benin Border

    Wednesday, December 30, 2009

    DC Underrated - Part I

    Washington, DC is often thought of as a rather bland city that doesn't have much to offer besides politics and memorials. Lo and behold, eclectic cafes, indie theaters and fusion restaurants are burgeoning throughout the city. In fact, DC has so many cool spots that I split the post in two sections. The first part of the series is on Cafes & Cultural Sights, and the second part covers Restaurants & Bars.

    CAFES

    Busboys & Poets (U-Street Corridor)
    2021 14th St (at V Street)
    Washington, DC 20009
    (202) 387-7638
    Eclectic cafe and bookstore in the up-and-coming U-street Corridor, named for African-American poet Langston Hughes. Great for an afternoon coffee or a light lunch. I highly recommend the avocado panini and the falafel sandwich - both are very tasty.

    1517 Connecticut Avenue (across from Dupont Circle Metro)
    Washington, DC 20036
    (202) 387-3825
    Great bookstore for the intellectually minded. The restaurant is located right next to the bookstore. It is a great lunch spot serving seasonal specials at very reasonable prices. My trips to DC always include a stopover at Kramer's for their books and their butternut squash ravioli.

    Baked & Wired (Georgetown)
    1052 Thomas Jefferson Street Northwest
    Washington, DC 20007
    (202) 333-2500
    Bohemian-style coffee shop with very friendly staff serving delicious organic granola and pastries. Their classic cupcake offerings include red velvet and strawberry (made with real strawberries!), but they also have seasonal cupcakes such as pumpkin with buttercream frosting. Their cupcakes rival those of nearby Georgetown Cupcake and the atmosphere has a lot more character with local art displays and occasional poetry slams. Great for breakfast or an afternoon pick-me-up in Georgetown. Again, tables fill up fast here too!

    Teaism (Dupont Circle)
    2009 R street NW
    Washington, DC 20009
    (202) 667-3827
    Lovely tea place located near Dupont Circle serving teas, light smoothies and infusions. A nice place to go to in the afternoon or after lunch at Kramer's, particularly on a rainy or cold day. Cozy place for studying but the tables can fill up quickly!

    CULTURAL SIGHTS

    Newseum (close to The National Mall)
    555 Pennsylvania Avenue Northwest
    Washington, DC 20001
    (202) 292-6100
    Unlike your typical museum, the Newseum is very well designed (the building architecture itself is worth seeing) and very interactive. You can have your five minutes of fame by broadcasting yourself as a news anchor on the steps of the Capitol or in front of the White House. You can then share your video online with family and friends. Very fun!

    Woolly Mammoth Theatre (Theater District)
    641 D Street Northwest
    Washington, DC 20004
    (202) 393-3939
    Indie theater company with thought-provoking plays. If you have time, check out their performances. Discounted tickets for those under 25 years old. The theater is 2 minutes away from Rasika and Oyamel.

    For more DC news and info on Arts & Events, check out DCist, an excellent insider's guide to Washington, DC.

    DC Underrated - Part II


    RESTAURANTS

    Rasika (Theater District)
    633 D Street Northwest
    Washington, DC 20004
    (202) 637-1222
    Delicious Indian restaurant with a modern feel yet very authentic cuisine. Reservations are a must for a table. If you don't have a reservation, the bar area also serves a full menu.

    Oyamel Cocina Mexicana (Theater District)
    401 7th Street Northwest
    Washington, DC 20004
    (202) 628-1005
    Excellent and fun mexican restaurant in the Theater District. Done tapas style (small plates), Oyamel has a great selection of tacos and delicious cocktails (if you're adventurous, try the Horchata). I highly recommend their homemade guacamole, freshly made in front of you!

    Peacock Cafe (Georgetown)
    3251 Prospect Street Northwest
    Washington, DC 20007
    (202) 625-2740
    Be and be-seen spot, ideally located for dinner after an afternoon of shopping in Georgetown. A hip yet unpretentious restaurant serving American-nouveau cuisine. Great for brunch or dinner.

    Cafe Bonaparte (Georgetown)
    1522 Wisconsin Avenue Northwest
    Washington, DC 20007
    (202) 333-8830
    Great brunch spot in Georgetown. Very tasty food offered in an intimate setting. I recommend trying one (or two) of their crepes! Their sister cafe in Adam's Morgan is called Napoleon and also offers a great brunch.

    Masa 14 (U-Street Corridor)
    1825 14th Street Northwest
    Washington, DC 20009
    (202) 328-1414
    Delicious tapas restaurant with great service and very cool atmosphere. I recommend 2 to 3 dishes per person so you can share family-style. Some of the highlights are the Serrano Ham Flatbread, the Green Curry Chicken and the Passion cocktail (passion fruit is my favorite!).

    Perry's (Adam's Morgan)
    1811 Columbia Road
    Washington, DC 20009
    (202) 234-6218
    Fantastic dinner venue, particularly their rooftop patio, that serves contemporary American cuisine fused with Asian influences. The imaginative cocktails and sushi offerings (especially the veggie roll with sundried tomato) make it a great place to share food - between two people or twelve!

    Mie N Yu (Georgetown)
    3125 M Street Northwest
    Washington, DC 20007
    (202) 333-6122
    Right off M St., this 3-story restaurant is reminiscent of the Buddha bar in Paris. Their award-winning cocktails are delicious and have imaginative names (Silk Road, Pink Pagoda, White Tiger). Their food is equally appealing, serving dishes originating from Indonesia to Korea. Share these dishes and drinks among a group of friends or with a special someone.

    BARS

    The Gibson (U-Street Corridor)
    2009 14th St NW
    Washington, DC 20009
    (202) 232-2156
    New bar following the speakeasy trend, decorated like an apartment. Offers a fantastic selection of cocktails with creative names. Dress code is upscale casual. It can be difficult to get in so I would recommend getting there on the early side (i.e. before midnight).

    Marvin (U-Street Corridor)
    2007 14th Street Northwest
    Washington, DC 20009
    (202) 797-7171
    If you don't get in The Gibson, check out Marvin (right next door). Named after Washington, DC native and singer-songwriter Marvin Gaye, it has a good scene and eclectic music. Outdoor patio upstairs that is great in summer and is heated through the winter.

    Poste Brasserie (Gallery Place-Chinatown)
    555 8th Street, NW
    Washington, DC 20004
    (202) 783-6060
    Located in the inner courtyard of the Hotel Monaco in Chinatown, Poste is a great place for after-work drinks made with fresh herbs from their garden. Outdoor seating in the summer, with a greenhouse-like restaurant, Poste can be a bit on the pricey side.

    1335 H St., NE
    Washington, DC 20002
    Play mini-golf while you get happy hour drinks with your friends! It sounds like it could be Chuck-E-Cheesy but it is surprisingly well done and is a great indoors activity during the winter months. Gets extremely busy on the weekends though, so try to go during the week, if you can! Free shuttle to HSCC from the Chinatown and Minnesota Ave. Metro stations.

    Acknowledgements: this post would never had seen light of day if not for the help of friends and family. A special thank you goes to Sara for her help in writing and editing the post.

    Saturday, April 11, 2009

    Best of New York City

    Best Burger
    JG Melon
    1291 3rd Avenue (at 74th Street)
    New York, NY 10021
    +1 212-744-0585

    Best Tapas
    Alta
    64 West 10th Street (near 6th Avenue)
    New York, NY 10011
    +1 212-505-7777

    Best Dessert
    Chikalicious Dessert Bar
    203 East 10th Street (near 2nd Avenue)
    New York, NY 10003
    +1 212-995-9511

    Best French Toast

    Cafe Cluny
    284 West 12th Street (at West 4th Street)
    New York, NY 10014
    +1 212-255-6900


    Best Chocolate Bread Pudding
    Blue Ribbon Bakery
    35 Downing Street (at Bedford Street)
    New York, NY 10014
    +1 212-337-0404


    Best Cocktails
    The Pegu Club
    77 West Houston Street, 2nd floor (at West Broadway)
    New York, NY 10012
    +1 212-743-7348

    Best Beer on Tap
    Spitzer
    's Corner
    101 Rivington Street (at Ludlow)
    New York, NY 10002
    +1 212-228-0027

    Best Mojito
    Esperanto
    145 Avenue C (at 9th Street)
    New York, NY 10009
    +1 212-505-6559

    Best Late-Night Pizza
    Joe's Pizza
    7 Carmine Street
    New York, NY 10014
    +1 212-366-1182

    Best Sunday Hang-Out
    Felix
    340 West Broadway (at Grand Street)
    New York, NY 10013
    +1 212-431-0021

    Best Sunday-Night Party

    Sway, Smiths/Morrissey Night
    Every Sunday, 10pm - 4am
    305 Spring Street (between Hudson and Greenwich Streets)
    New York, NY 10013
    +1 212-620-5220

    Best Bachelorette Party Sighting
    Tortilla Flats

    767 Washington Street (at West 12th Street)
    New York, NY 10014
    +1 212-243-1053



    Sunday, July 27, 2008

    Milano Trattorias

    Obika Mozarella Bar (Piazza del Duomo)
    La Rinascente
    Via Santa Radegonda, 3
    Tel. 02 8852453
    Based on the Japanese sushi-bar concept, Obika Mozarella Bar offers different varieties of Mozzarella di Bufala Campana Dop (paestum, pontina, smoked, stracciatella di Burrata) and other Italian specialities, salads and pastas. You can even have tastings of home-made mozarella. There are various locations but the one located on the top floor of La Rinascente has a great terrace and an amazing view of the Duomo. A must for mozarella lovers!

    Cantina della Vetra
    Via Pio IV, 3 ang. Piazza Vetra
    Tel. 02 89403843
    Wine and food bar located on a very nice little piazza. Great food, excellent wine, wonderful atmosphere, and very Italian. Local experience guaranteed!

    Fratelli la Bufala
    Milano Viale Sabotino, 1A
    Tel. 02 58328448
    Great spot for pizza located near Bocconi University. Appetizers are great too. Reasonable prices and excellent service. Make sure you save room for desert; the best gelato place in Milan is right around the corner from the restaurant (see below)!

    Riva Reno
    Viale Col di Lana, 8
    Tel. 02 89077147
    One of the most talked-about gelato places in Milan. Riva Reno was started by a former BBC journalist, a lawyer, a former car executive and two gelato makers. Very cool and hip decor. I recommend trying one of their specialty ice creams with mascarpone! Located near Fratelli la Bufala.

    Sunday, May 18, 2008

    Berlin by Night

    First and foremost, the Hakuna Matata kiosk at the U2 Eberswalder Strasse metro station is the meeting point before people go out in the Prenzlauerberg area.

    Zu mir oder zu dir
    Very cool spot with retro chairs and sofas. Very chill, the bar has a home-like atmosphere. Great music and colorful lighting.
    Address: Lychener Strasse off Danziger Strasse
    Metro: U2 Eberswalder Str.
    Zu mir oder zu dir - Courtesy of Pierre-Emmanuel Mol
    Schwarz Sauer
    Local joint where hip artists hangout. Always packed!
    Address: Kastanienalle
    Metro: U2 Eberswalder Str.

    Morgenrot
    Very cheap bar on the ground floor with a space for concerts underground. Great bar to end the night. Very alternative - so don't be surprised if you run into one or two mohawks - and very Berlin!!
    Address: Kastanienalle
    Metro: U2 Eberswalder Str.

    103
    A bit more classy and hip (there is also a Club 103 at Friedriechshain near the Watergate)
    Address: Kastanienalle
    Metro: U2 Eberswalder Str.

    Kauf dich Gluecklich
    Thrift store/cafe that serves delicious home-made waffles and crepes. Very cool spot to have a drink early evening. Cash only!
    Address: Oderberger Strasse 44, 10119 Berlin
    Hours: Mon-Sun 11am to 1am
    Metro: U2 Eberswalder Str.

    Weinerei
    Very cool wine bar/restaurant near Zionskirche (the church is off Kastanienallee, near 103). You should go after 8pm, when the "wine happy hour" begins. You pay 1 euro to have an empty glass and then pay what you think is fair at the end of the evening. There is also a buffet, which you pay for with a donation as well. You serve yourself so it's entirely based on trust. I hope it didn't go bankrupt...!
    Address: Zionkirchestrasse 40, 10119 Berlin (South end of the Zionskirchplatz)
    Metro: U8 Rosenthaler Platz

    Dach Kammer
    Located on Simon Dach Strasse near Friedriechshain (other hip area on the East Side), the bar is decorated like a former East Berlin apartment. Great atmosphere, especially on the top floor.
    Address: Simon-Dach Strasse 39, 10245 Berlin
    Metro: Warschauer Str.

    Cafe am Neuensee
    Very cool Biergarten located by the lake in the heart of Tiergarten. Well hidden spot to relax and have Hefeweizen or Kristall beers with locals after a long day of shopping on the Ku-damm.
    Address: Lichtensteinallee 2, 10787 Berlin
    Hours: 10am to midnight, daily
    Metro: Zoologischegarten

    Saturday, May 17, 2008

    Weekend in Barcelona

    The Gaudi Houses
    Visit at least one of the Gaudi Houses.  I recommend visiting Casa Batllo - designed by Spanish architect Antonio Gaudi - one of the most interesting and unusual houses in Barcelona.  

    Casa Battlo
    Passeig de Gracia 43
    08007 Barcelona, Spain  
    +34 934 880 666
    Metro: Passeig de Gracia (Green Line, L3)


    Casa Battlo


    Park Guell
    Spend an afternoon in Park Guell, where you'll see incredible buildings, sculptures and tile work designed by Gaudi.  The park can be a bit crowded with tourists but definitely worth going to.    

    Park Guell

    I highly recommend going to the Picasso Museum. Located in an old Catalan house, you'll see the artist's early drawings and paintings. It really changed my perspective of Picasso as an artist.  A must see!
    Address: Montcada 15-23, 08003 Barcelona 
    Tel: +34 93 256 30 00 
    Metro: Arc de Triomf (Red Line, L1); Liceu (Green Line, L3); Jaume I (Yellow Line, L4)

    Mercat de la Boqueria
    The Mercat de la Boqueria (the largest market in Barcelona) is a must see.  It's full of life and colors.  Make sure to bring your camera!

    El Mercat de la Boqueria


    Gothic Quarter
    Located at the heart of Barcelona, the Gothic Quarter is a labyrinth of narrow streets leading to hidden piazzas. I recommend spending 1-2 hours to walk around and "get lost" in the medieval streets of Gothic.


    Barceloneta Beach
    After a long day of sightseeing and walking, unwind at the beach.  Barceloneta Beach is great independently of the weather.  When I was there,  it was cold and windy but all the surfers were out.  

    Barceloneta Beach


    La Flauta
    Located near Plaça Universitat, this is the best place to try many varieties of flautas (baguette sandwiches). A warm atmosphere is created by the fine wood, good lighting and pleasant service. This restaurant is always packed, whether at the bar or in any of the two dining areas, where they also serve salads, tapas and grilled meat. It is worth having a taste of their assorted tapas, such as the Pulpo a la Galleg (octopus), chicken, or Patatas Bravas (potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce).
    Address: Aribau 23, 08011 Barcelona
    Tel: +34 93 323 7038

    La Flauta

    Espit Chupitos
    Located near the Av. Diagonal, you'll have a choice of over 542 different chupitos. Each chupito has its own flavor and preparation, for only 1,50€! Try out the Harry Potter (a secret concoction set on fire) and/or the Boy Scout (you'll get to grill marshmallows over your shot)!  
    Address: Aribau 77, 08011 Barcelona
    Hours: Monday - Friday: 10:30pm - 3:00am